“Each gem cutter who knows about optical physics has already tasted the delights of reflection.”
Gemology is a science in which a specific vocabulary is used. The meaning of words is therefore important to ensure scientific rigor is maintained.
This tutorial aims to provide a vocabulary clarification so that professionals and amateurs find common ground.
Definition of brilliance :
« State of being shiny. »
Regarding luster, Wikipedia tells us this :
« The reflective power of a substance is the ratio between the amount of light reflected and the amount of light received. Luster is the visual perception of how a mineral reflects light. In general, it is proportional to the refractive index but largely independent of color. »
Moreover, the author of this article was slightly mistaken, so I have deliberately truncated the last sentence of this definition, which is incorrect: « Luster is responsible for the brilliance of gemstones ».
The luster of a material can be defined by several adjectives, in increasing order :
- Resinous, dull, matte, greasy... : amber
- Vitreous: natural and synthetic glass, topaz
- Brilliant: sapphire (may also be considered vitreous)
- Sub-adamantine: zircon
- Adamantine: diamond
You understand that the luster of a gem is specific to the family it belongs to. By extension, to its chemical composition and its optical and physical characteristics. Therefore, if I analyze a piece of glass, well or poorly cut, the luster will always be defined as vitreous. The lapidary cannot change the luster of a material through their work.
On the other hand, for brilliance, the lapidary takes over. A good cut will enhance brilliance, while a poor cut will diminish it.
Finally, brilliance is always estimated; it cannot be calculated and varies according to several factors, mainly the cut.
To conclude the topic, I offer a concrete example :
A quality topaz can have an exceptional "life" due to its purity and the quality of its cut. We will therefore talk about a gem with vitreous luster that shows very good brilliance.
All our stones are certified by Julien Boemo (FGA), gemologist graduated from the international Gem-A school in London.
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